“Given the temperatures that are decidedly above average for the period, Teo and I are in touch to finally climb a mountain route together, looking for something interesting. After several proposals, I launch an idea that Popi Miotti had given me Some time ago, a beautiful granite tower on the southern slope of the Grandes Jorasses. There are only two routes marked on the left side of the pillar, The entire wall is free to be discovered and climbed wherever we like .
When I showed the photo to Teo, as a great expert on the area, he immediately knew what it was about and told me the story behind it.
It was an idea born from Berna , whose messages on the line to follow still remained, and then proposed to Matteo Pasquetto. Due to two absurd twists of fate, things went differently, and I only discovered everything when I sent Teo the photo of the wall.
Then Giacomo Mauri joins us and on Tuesday we go up to the Boccalatte refuge, on Wednesday we go up the gully to reach the base of the route also loaded with (useless, as it turns out) bivouac gear.
After the first freezing pitch, the sun comes out and the rock immediately warms up. It doesn't feel like winter at all, and we climb the wall slowly. We never encounter any particular difficulties. but the last pitches give us beautiful and steep climbing but full of good holds… the gift of the Berna ".
GREAT GUYS! FULL SPEED AHEAD!
