The Gamma 1 via ferrata, along with two other historic Lecco via ferratas, Gamma 2 and the Corno di Medale via ferrata, were redeveloped by the historic Gamma di Lecco mountaineering group and inaugurated in March 2022. Together with a group of mountain journalists, we hiked the Gamma 1 route that leads to Pizzo d'Erna: an experience enhanced by the magnificent view of the city of Lecco and its lake.
Lecco and mountaineering, mountaineering and Lecco. An inseparable pair that has successfully interpreted rock not only through authentic climbing, but also by extending the enjoyment of the vertical world to something that once turned mountain purists' noses aback: via ferratas.
And here above the lake, there are some who have made “literature”.
This is the case of the Gamma 1 via ferrata which has an emblematic connection demonstrated by the famous photograph taken on this very route which leads to Pizzo d'Erna and which portrays Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri in action, two names who need no introduction.
The Gamma 1 via ferrata winds along the imposing rocky bastion of Pizzo d'Erna, offering splendid views of Lecco and its lake during the ascent. The via ferrata is characterized by its high exposure and considerable elevation (about 700 meters), and is loved for its numerous ladders that ascend large sections of the first and last sections of the route. Admittedly, the technical difficulties are modest, save for a few short, slightly challenging sections, but for those who enjoy this type of climbing, it represents a physically demanding test, but above all, a rewarding experience in terms of the sheer pleasure of climbing.
And that's what seven mountain journalists we invited to retrace the historic via ferrata, accompanied by the Gamma Alpine Group, the people responsible for the maintenance and redevelopment of the route, felt.
It's mid-June, and after a few rainy weeks, the sun is finally shining in Lecco: a sun that will be felt strongly on the skin along the face of Pizzo d'Erna.
Whether you're arriving by train or car, everyone will meet at the Lecco Sport Hub, where everyone will be equipped with Rock Experience technical gear suitable for the via ferrata. Once harnesses, helmets, and via ferrata kits have been distributed, we're finally ready to head to the large square where the Piani d'Erna cable car departs, the starting point for our approach to the via ferrata.
We take a path next to the lift station that heads towards the Stoppani Refuge until we reach a signposted fork: here we take a steep path that climbs to the left, and in about 20 minutes from the parking lot we're at the base of the Gamma 1 via ferrata. One last look at the wall and off we go!
After a short vertical section with good holds and a small traverse, the first long metal ladder begins, allowing us to easily gain height. This ladder ends on a well-equipped ledge where we can move to the right to begin another long series of ladders with considerable exposure.
From here, turning around and looking back, in addition to the many meters of altitude that now separate us from the ground, you can see almost the entire city of Lecco and a branch of Lake Como.
Once we've climbed the steel rungs of the numerous ladders, we reach the end of the first section of the via ferrata. On the right, there's an escape route leading to the Stoppani refuge. Our group, compact and still energized, decides to continue to the left, where a short path through the woods connects us to the second section of the via ferrata.
From here, we begin climbing again along a series of easy rocks, veering first right and then left until we reach a short, exposed section that's much more technical than the rest of the route. Once across, it leads to a cable that acts as a three-rope suspension bridge. This can be avoided by taking an alternative route, but we all enjoy climbing it, as if in a suspended park.
Once past this point, a few more steps and a few easy passages between the rocks lead us to a second suspension bridge: a solid and sturdy steel walkway, which after a few more simple passages takes us to the foot of the last rocky tower.
The heat is starting to make itself felt, both from the sun beating down on our backs and from the intense efforts we've made up to this point: the water we loaded into our backpacks early in the morning becomes our main ally.
The top of the tower is reached via another set of steps that lead to the summit ridge, where the imposing Pizzo d'Erna cross is located. We've arrived, and from here you can see the entire city of Lecco and its lake.
Handshakes and congratulations from everyone in the group: it certainly wasn't an impossible feat, but the mountains have this extraordinary ability to share joys and sorrows and make them feel common to the whole group.
A few more photos of the view and we head to the nearby refuge, where we're warmly welcomed with a cold beer and excellent charcuterie. Now it's time for stories, chatter, and mountain tales, which don't stop even on the cable car that takes us back to the parking lot.
Before getting into the car, a last, silent look behind us, searching for the passages of that conquered and appreciated route, while the plans are already running towards September, when it will be time for Gamma 2.
